one week in nuku hiva

i don't know where to start.. let's see.
we are anchored out pretty far and every day when on deck we hear this splattering noise, it turnes out that it is a swarm of little fish trying to escape someone who is hunting them under water. one day it was a group of rays, they had a wingspan of 5 ft plus and were at least 4 of them. the little fish jumping out of the water to get away from them, but above the surface there were 5 frigate birds, circeling like vultures and diving for them as soon as they came out of the water. then yesterday the same scenario, only it wasn't rays but mahimahi. poor little fish, they stand no chance.... another thing i want to report is that i saw a tranny girl. aparently this is a usual thing in polynesian culture. she was gorgeous and walked through the village to get her lunch and everybody said hi and it was totally normal. granted this village only has about 500 people living here. everybody has tattoos too, well, the "tribal" stuff comes from here. it is absolutely normal and everybody has them. younger people more so because they are reviving their traditions. i saw these two pig hunters with full body and facial tattoos, absolutely stunning. they had 3 dogs on a leash each and 3 other dogs just running with them freely and they went through town in dog tempo, nearly jogging, and then they were gone, i didn't even have time to get my camera out.
i talked to some fishermen with tattoos and they were laughing when i said that you have to be 18 in the US or germany to get a tattoo, they had started with 12 and 14 respectively. many women have pretty ones around their ears, moving up their cheekbone.
the other thing i want to mention is the water. every river here has geardia and one can't drink it, so the old polynesian habit of the ladies, sitting in the river and tending to their hair had to be totally abandoned. tjhere is only 2 sources of fresh water on the island that is drinkable, where one can get it directly where the spring comes out of the rock, it is the sunday afternoon excursion of every family to go there either by boat or 4wd. we are still hoping to catch rain. it was raining every day since our arrival until we put the raincatcher out...